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Site Preparation

Site preparation is one of the most important parts of planning a project. There is no simple "one size fits all" answer since everyone’s needs, plans, and locations are different, but here are some common guidelines to follow when preparing for your new structure.
 
Base
We strongly recommend a hard, compact base for your structure. The base will provide support and allow for proper drainage. The materials used for a foundation are almost always one of the following: compacted gravel (if a deck is included), patio stones, or a concrete pad. Sometimes piers are also used if the structure must be elevated off of the ground.
 
Gravel: Patio Stones: Concrete Pad:
2B Crushed Limestone Gravel Large Concrete Patio Stones Freshly Poured Concrete
Gravel Base with Pine Border Patio Base with Stones/Pavers Solid Concrete Pad/Slab
 
Gravel:   This option is only recommended for structures that include a deck. Loose stones and gravel are easier to level and provide enough support, but must be contained. Gravel stones are often less expensive than solid materials such as concrete, flagstone or brick, but they are also less permanent.

Patio Stones:   If the area is level, stone pavers are a viable option. These come in different sizes such as 8" x 16", 12" x 12", or larger, and come in different thicknesses and depths. If your structure includes a deck, be sure to rest the floor on the block so that it is supported at each post, and in the middle. Additional supports should be added as needed so that there is no span greater than 4-5 feet. On structures with no deck the posts can be embedded in concrete footers in the ground beneath the patio stones, or the posts can be attached to the stones, although without proper planning this may crack the stone pavers in certain situations.

Concrete Pad:   A concrete pad is the most long-lasting option, and the most structurally supportive if done correctly. It must be level and plumb. A sloping pad means a leaning structure, which will put extra stress on joints. Concrete pads can be made larger than the structures they are supporting. The size and style of the structure, your location, and local codes can influence the design process (for example, footers may be required). Please talk to one of our Project Advisors before pouring concrete.

Once you have selected the base material, it must be leveled within 1-2 inches from side to side.
 
Elevation
If you choose to elevate your gazebo to match the height of a deck or if the gazebo is to be placed on very un-level ground such as over a hillside, we recommend this be done with posts concreted into the ground. There are matters to consider before taking on this type of project but ultimately safety and durability must always be a top priority. Please consult with our project advisors beforehand.
 
Gazebo elevation diagram
 
Leveling
If leveling of your gazebo is just a matter of a couple inches or up to a foot, you may be able to do this with a minimum amount of cost and labor. Request to have 4x4 runners as an option for under the floor of your gazebo. Once the floor is built, leveling can be done by lifting the lower parts of the floor and blocking under the runners. This can be done with patio stones, bricks, pressure treated lumber, or anything that will support the weight of the gazebo.
 
Gazebo leveling

If leveling is over the 12” height, it is best to put the gazebo up on posts, using the runners as beams. We can typically recommend where to place posts to support the raised gazebo. Posts can be 6 x 6 treated pine posts, or concrete, using Sona Tubes, which are forms to fill to make round pillars or posts. All gazebos need to be supported where the posts of the gazebo meet the floor, and in the middle. You may want to add the 4 x 4 runners to serve as beams as well. Our project advisors can provide drawings and advice to properly support your raised gazebo.

Like the rest of the site preparation, being off by a few inches can be a big deal. Getting these details right will directly benefit the finished project.

Note: Gravel can be spread up to the floor or deck for landscaping purposes after the structure has been placed on a level gravel bed.
 
Electrical
The Hidden Wiring Package is one our most practical and popular options. However, we recommend that a local electrician install this option, to ensure that it meets your local codes. In some cases, a trench for the wire is necessary to hide the wiring, so check the codes and details for your area. We use a 14/2 gauge as a lead wire. This extends below the posts and is about 8’ long. Also standard with the hidden wiring package is a 15 amp switch and a 15 amp GFI (ground fault) receptacle. GFI receptacles are needed for any outdoor plug, which prevent shock hazards, and reduce blown fuses and breakers. Additional receptacles can total up to the post count of your structure to accommodate additional outlets.
 
Permits
In some areas, HOA’s (home owner associations) and local governments like to be consulted about gazebo, shed, and cabana projects. Very often, the local codes are available on the web, making it easier for you to determine if a permit is necessary. It is our pledge to you that we will provide any necessary information, so that you may obtain a permit in as little time as possible.

Deposits are 100% refundable if you are not able to obtain a permit and we have not yet begun construction of the structure. Please inform your project advisor that you are applying for a permit so that we may delay fabrication until approval is received, otherwise restocking fees must be charged on canceled orders.

Local codes will always take precedence over our footer designs: frost lines, distance from property lines, floodplains, attaching to, or adding to a deck all can present certain issues that may change design plans depending on your location. Local codes also may call for changes to our buildings to withstand required wind loads, snow loads, and seismic ratings. The customer will be responsible for obtaining any necessary permits or engineers' stamps, as well as the cost of any structural changes to adhere to local codes. Unless we are building your foundation ourselves, and are contracted to do so, the cost and engineering of the foundation are also the customer's responsibility.
 
Local codes will always take precedence over our footer designs: frost lines, distance from property lines, floodplains, attaching to, or adding to a deck all can present certain issues that may change design plans depending on your location. Local codes also may call for changes to our buildings to withstand required wind loads, snow loads, and seismic ratings. The customer will be responsible for obtaining any necessary permits or engineers' stamps, as well as the cost of any structural changes to adhere to local codes. Unless we are building your foundation ourselves, and are contracted to do so, the cost and engineering of the foundation are also the customer's responsibility.
 
Have Questions?
If you have any questions for us, we would be happy to answer them.
Call Toll-Free: 1-888-293-2339
Email: contact@fifthroom.com
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